Next I cut the groove for the crest rail ebony spline. There is a bit of trepidation taking a router hand held to a nearly finished piece:
I have only a 1/8th inch wide groove cutter (it may actually be a biscuit cutter, not sure). As you see in the photo, I had to make two passes to get the width I wanted. Unfortunately, I had some tearout, so I had to widen the groove a bit to clear that out. I went very slow and removed very little to remove the tearout, which produced only fuzz but no tearout at the problematic area the second time around. Unfortunately, the groove is a bit wider than I wanted, but it still looks fine. The problem I think is that I went the entire depth with the first cut. Next time I will take multiple passes, with the first pass shallow to avoid tear out.
I used my bandsaw and small Jet 10-20 drum sander to make ebony splines.
It is not an exact 90 degree angle where the top spline meets the vertical spline so I had to fuss with the top of the vertical spline on a makeshift shooting board using shims of paper to change the angle:
After using a coping saw to remove most of the ebony, I use a small coarse sanding drum on a dremel to level the ebony to where I can finish with hand tools and sandpaper. The small sanding drum is very aggressive and the process goes quite fast. I have a vacuum hose underneath (not shown for some reason) in an attempt to capture most of that gnarly ebony dust.
I also tackle the plugs, using the same process as I did for the arms in an earlier post. Before installing the plugs I wet the entire piece to raise the grain then sand with 220. Sanding around plugs is not a lot of fun so better to do so before hand.
I install corner glue blocks inside the seat area. Glue blocks add a tremendous amount of strength to the piece:
Keep making your wonderful furniture!!!!
ReplyDeletejill